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Sunday, April 1, 2007

Mild Confrontation With Naked Man in Sauna

If you're in Japan, you'll probably take this as an understatement when I say that sometimes, Japanese people treat foreigners differently than they would ever treat each other. In my opinion Fukuoka is the most foreigner-friendly place in Japan (or at least, so nonchalant about foreigners that they generally treat us the same as everyone else), but every now and then I have a mild run-in.

This example actually isn't that bad, and if you judge it by western standards of conduct it'll probably come off as petty or just nit-picking minutiae. But it explains some aspects of life in Japan pretty well, so I thought it might make an interesting story.

Generally, in Japan you don't talk to strangers. Everyone keeps a polite psychological distance. If you do talk to someone you don't know for whatever reason, you're friendly and polite about it, or at least very, very, apologetic for intruding on their space. My gym has a sauna, hot bath and lounge that I relax in after a workout. It's basically about as quiet and relaxing as my own home. Turns for things like using the dryer are settled with eye-contactless looks or respectful little nods.

The area has free disposable razors and toothbrushes, and cheap plastic brushes (the teeth are made of thick plastic) and combs. When you finish with the brushes, you put them in a dirty tray and they get sterilized for re-use.

Anyway, I was in the sauna, and while I didn't realize it, I guess I was scratching my leg a bit with the brush. Suddenly, I heard someone go "Hey! Hey!"

I turned around, and this Japanese guy was looking at me. He told me not to scratch my leg with the brush, because that's not what it's for.

I could point out that objectively, applying the brush end to my leg doesn't really dirty it any more or less than pushing it through my hair does, or that either way, it'll be sterilized before anyone else uses it anyway. But while true, both those things miss the point.

To understand how rude that is, you have to understand Japan. No Japanese person would ever say something like that to a Japanese stranger of equal status, even if whatever he was doing genuinely was rude or boorish. Aside from invading my space, he was acting like it was his place to tell me what to do, and mine to listen to him.

I smiled and thanked him for his advice, and went right back to scratching my leg with it. Spiteful I guess, but I wanted to make a point.

He must have felt embarrassed about it, because as I left the sauna he said I'm sorry. I turned to him and said it wasn't his place to tell me what to do any more than it was to tell anyone else. He said, "It's public opinion". I just thanked him for his advice again, this time with more sarcasm, and left the sauna.

Later on, I was in the lounge, where people read, doze, or watch little TVs built into their reclining chairs, with audio that softly comes through the headrests. You're supposed to keep quiet, and talking on a cell phone is prohibited.

I hear some guys yapping away about work. It goes on a few minutes, and it's starting to get irritating. I turn around, and...it's the same guy!

I couldn't resist- I turned around, told them some of us were trying to sleep and asked them if they could please stop talking. They switched to whispers for minute, and then the guy's friend got up and moved to another seat further from him and started reading a newspaper. Probably sounds pretty mild if you're back in North America, but like I said, that's some pretty presumptuous stuff to do to others here.

Not trying to make it out like some kind of tough-guy confrontation, or I like I stared him down...that's not the point. In fact, if there's any moral to it, it's that when I made the same kind of demand, he obliged. So if I see him again I'll pay him the same respect, and refrain from letting my brush touch any part of my body but my hair.

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

I see, the smallest things are quite confronting in Japan aren't they. Of course all of this dialogue was in Japanese too, wasn't it.

jeffjrstewart said...

Actually he attempted some English, which in a way is pretty respectful, because he was attempting to speak on my level.

Reading this post back, it comes off like I was really offended or upset over it, and I wrote about it to brood.
While it was a break from the norm and I'm psychoanalyzing it, it wasn't a big deal...but I thought it told a bit about life in Japan.

I've had much worse situations, where shop owners literally refused
to sell me stuff. One guy physically blocked me from going into the changing room of his store to try a shirt on. When I asked him to explain, he told me Japanese shirts won't fit foreigners because the sizes are different. I told him
I wear Japanese clothes that size all the time (every thread on my body was bought in Japan), but he still refused to budge.

Then I said I would just buy it, because I knew it would fit and just wanted to see how it would look in the mirror...and he refused to sell it to me!

I told him what he was doing was discrimination, which put a scare in him. Up until that point he thought he was just "dealing" with a foreigner, but when you call the race card in play and make clear what they're doing, they get a lot less confident about their actions.
They realize it could reflect badly on them, and rather than you being an outsider, it could wind up being THEM that get viewed by others as behaving badly.

Finally I told him what he was doing was wrong, put the exact change for shirt plus tax on the counter (without him ringing it up), and walked out.

That kind of thing makes for a much more exciting story, but doesn't explain life in the same way.

By the way...in both cases this stuff is still pretty rare in Fukuoka. People are usually great, and even if they're nervous of me because I'm a foreigner at first, they relax and get normal again once they realize I speak Japanese and more or less know how to act. I've met a lot of people that seemed weird at first but turned out to be cool after a minute or too.

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Anonymous said...

Why didn't you clean your ass crack with the brush you retard - He probably was telling you a convention you didnt know about. Just like being an a-hole is western convention. Who can blame the Japanese for treating foreigners different if there so many high and mighty jackasses like you

jeffjrstewart said...

Wow...you wouldn't last longer than a month in Japan.

You know, regardless of what your take on this is...it's pretty ironic that you hurl insults like "retard" at someone in the name of denouncing assholes.

Aji said...

I recently came accross your blog and have been reading along. I thought I would leave my first comment. I dont know what to say except that I have enjoyed reading. Nice blog. I will keep visiting this blog very often.


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